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The Pillar

The sun and heatwave have finally made it to Torridon – Jen was off today and I had a nice cooling dip in the gorge during the morning followed by a pleasant coastal walk in the afternoon after I was getting a loan from because I need the money to buy new equipment.

Having not managed to climb at Diabaig yet – I was really excited to head over after work and give the classic ‘Pillar’ (E2 5b) a go. Several people have mentioned to me this is as good as left wall and a must do for the area. I had to go take a look.

For those that don’t know Diabaig is at the end of the road through Torridon village and a beautiful spot. It has hills of Lewisian Gneiss surrounding it with many crags. The Pillar climbs the central line of the most obvious slab/wall.

The Pillar
The Pillar crag, the route is up the middle of the face – photo by Jen Roberts

All I can say is the line lives up to the reputation and while I personally would put it below Left Wall on my all time favourite climbs it’s definitely up there. Starting off with a continuously interesting well protected crack you gain a ramp to move down and left before questing up the face above. Some holds are obvious others a bit hidden but they keep arriving just where you need them to make the climbing so enthralling I almost didn’t realise I’d made it to the top. Gear is plentiful though you don’t loose that committing feel with linked sections of moves between key pieces. Does it deserve four stars – yes I think it does.

Climbing The Pillar - photo by Jen Roberts
Climbing The Pillar – photo by Jen Roberts

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